Many Chefs are concerned about the raising of cattle and the use of antibiotics. This is a topic that concerns us also, and we at Preferred are insistent with our farmers and ranchers that there is transparency in how they raise their animals so we can better know how sustainable the operation is. As far blanketing the use of all antibiotics as bad or non-sustainable we are more interested in knowing the why's and how’s of usage if used at all. Let’s face it, cattle are living things and are susceptible to sickness, parasites and other ailments that good husbandry would and should address. What we want to know is if the husbandry itself is causing the problem that necessitates the treatment. If that is so then it is the methods of raising the animal and not the medication itself that calls sustainability to question.
One substance used in the finishing of ruminating animals on high energy diets is an ionophore called monensin. Ionophores disrupt transmembrane ion concentration gradients, required for the proper functioning and survival of microorganisms, and thus have antibiotic properties. They are produced naturally by certain microbes and act as a defense against competing microbes. To put it simply the ionophore monensin (marketed as Rumensin) kills certain bacteria that causes acidosis in the cattle’s rumen thus allowing it to metabolize and digest better adding to the general health of the animal.
Because monensin (aka Rumensin) does this it is technically classified by the USDA as an antibiotic, but not in the classic sense of the word. Monensin is not systemic so it does not enter the blood stream; it stays in the gut so there is nothing passed on to the consumer of the meat. There are certain bacteria that are resistant to monensin but some authorities feel there is not the same concern of super strains of bacteria developing that become antibiotic resistant because of misuse because this is strictly dealing with the rumen of cattle and acid producing bacteria that live there. Yet, there are natural producers that feel that any type of product that kills existing bacteria in an animal may have unknown effects down the line, so choose not to use it.
We conversed with Extension Associate Mike Baker of Cornell University and he mentioned to us that Rumensin aids in the process of breaking down fiber thus cutting down on methane production as greenhouse gases are produced through acidosis. Does monensin make the final product greener because of less greenhouse gasses produced by the animal leaving less of a carbon footprint in that less feed is needed in the process? Well that might be debated but analyzing the use of what the USDA classifies an antibiotic the argument may be made that this may not be so bad after all. If the animal is healthier, more comfortable, and is metabolizing high energy feed like corn better would that not be classified as good husbandry? Many farmers believe so, yet some farmers are hesitant.
Bill Niman of BN RANCH and original founder of Niman Ranch, (though no longer affiliated with that company), feels that ionophores are used because the cattle are introduced to grain at too young of an age and if the gut was allowed to mature a little longer before the animal was fed grain the Rumensin would be unnecessary. Mr. Niman is concerned of the possibilities of super strains of resistant microorganisms forming that would be harder to control. He favors a more natural slower growth rate based on a grass diet making monensin unnecessary in his operation.
If a Chef demands well marbled meat, then high energy feed is necessary in finishing it. The debate is in taking a more natural approach, but what is a natural approach for an animal that has been bred for eating over the centuries? What is the natural setting for Hereford cattle? Do you ever encounter an Angus steer in the forest, ready for the hunter to stalk, kill and eat? By nature of raising the animal for food the setting has been altered to some extent. Good husbandry calls for keeping the animal healthy and content in a sustainable way. Now the farmer or rancher has decisions to make in this regard.
Does a rancher use an ionophore, probiotics, or some other method? Is the animal finished slower on straight grass or are they fattened on grain? If so how is acidosis controlled? Is utilizing some technology to enhance the process of raising animals necessarily working out of harmony with the facts of sustainability? There may be numerous answers to this question. We at Preferred are interested in finding these answers so you as a chef and buyer can make an informed decision.
John Paul Khoury,ACF/CCC
Corporate Chef
PREFERRED MEATS, Inc.
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